Preparing Your Herb Garden For Winter!

Autumn. Yes, it’s that time of year again! Wood smoke scented air, cobalt sky, brilliant hued trees… and an herb garden that will soon need special attention!

If you are like me, there are a variety of herbs in your garden: perennials, biennials, and annuals. And if you have been at this for a while, you’ve probably learned – as have I! – that eachis treated differently. Over the years, I’ve developed simple “get-ready-for-winter” herb gardening steps for all types of herbs. Mind if I share?

First, let’s have some basic word definitions:
Perennial herbs are typically non-woody plants that die back each winter and return to life in the spring. In some climates a perennial herb will continue to grow year-round. Chives, mint, thyme, marjoram, French tarragon, lavender, sage, and plantain name a few perennials.

Biennials take two years to finish their life cycle. Usually the first year the plant does not develop flowers. In the second year it blooms, sets seed, and dies. That’s why I like to use only heirloom seeds for my biennials (and annuals). Then I can save them and replant. Caraway, fennel, parsley, and flannel mullein are among the many biennial herbs.

Annuals are plants that live for just one growing season. In the spring their seeds germinate. From spring to fall the plant quickly grows, blooms, sets seed, and dies. It may seem impractical to include annual herbs in your garden, but don’t forget: some of the best herbs God created are annuals! They include basil (Garlic bread, anyone?), coriander/cilantro (Hurrah for Mexican food!), dill (Pass the pickles, please!), and German chamomile (ahhh, relaxing). Who, may I ask, can live without those?!

Now, let’s take a look at the simple steps to preparing each type of herb for the winter.

Perennials:

1. Division: If your perennial herbs are at least two years old, they might be eligible for root division. In cool climates, this is done in the fall (in warm climates, spring is best). I always have success dividing herbs such as chives, echinacea, lemon balm, and most herbs that do not form a compact crown. (The compact crown, tap-root type are propagated by cuttings, layering or seed.) Division actually improves the health and durability of your parent plant. To divide, carefully dig up the roots (about a foot square for most herbs) of an established plant, then separate part of it into smaller clumps. Use your fingers to gently separate roots, cutting with sharp shears if needed. Now tamp the soil back around the established plant. Next plant the divisions wherever you like–and be generous! Family, friends, and neighbors are usually delighted to receive from your garden. And for those who don’t have gardens of their own, why not purchase pretty pots at a garden center (They’re often on sale in the fall!), and plant your divisions in these as charming, useful houseplant gifts? Add index cards highlighting your favorite uses for each plant and instructions for moving outdoors in the spring.
2. Cutting back: In cool climates, established plants should be cut back each fall. This entails snipping the plants down to about one or two inches above the ground. Come spring, cut-back plants will thrive vigorously. Oh, and do not disregard the cuttings!!! Separate the usable parts (toss anything woody or dry into the compost pile), proceed to freeze or dry, just as you did when you harvested and preserved herbal parts in late summer. Now you won’t need to feel wasteful, and you will certainly enjoy using those end-of-season herbs through the cozy-cold winter. Note: If you have any perennials that set seed (such as Echinacea), be sure to gather the seed before cutting back.
3. Bringing Indoors: If you keep certain perennials in movable containers, you can easily move them indoors to over-winter. This has its good and bad points. The good: You can enjoy cheery splashes of green all winter, and the benefits of fresh-snipped herbs in sauces, soups, salads, etc.! Sounds wonderful, doesn’t it? And it is! The bad: over time most herbs become leggy and weak when brought indoors and lose their pungency. When spring arrives, they will need to be cut back to about five inches, then taken through a process similar to hardening-off before they can cope outdoors full-time again. Note: If you plan on leaving potted perennials outdoors over winter, prepare just as you would your garden-plot perennials.
4. Mulching: I used to think mulching plants after the first hard frost was to keep the roots warm. Wrong! Instead, this is done to keep the roots dormant, thus preventing a plant from attempting growth every time there is a warm spell. If you want your perennial herbs to wake up perky and refreshed in the spring, they will need a good, long, sound winter’s sleep. For mulch, I like to use straw (You don’t want to use anything with seeds–unless you really enjoy weeding!). First, cut back the plants. Then, once the first hard frost arrives, put a nice, thick layer of mulch over them. With the first touch of spring, rake away mulch. After the last hard frost, mix bone meal, fish fertilizer, or all-purpose fertilizer in the soil around the plants. Begin your watering routine, and watch your perennials awaken–an ample reward for that extra care in the fall!

Biennials

1. What Not to Do: First and foremost, not all biennials can be divided. Remember, they are not mature plants in the first season, and they will finish their life cycle in the second. If a biennial spends its first season in rosette form, it can’t be divided. Also, do not cut back biennials that form rosettes or are low-growing.
2. Collect and save seeds: In the second year of a biennial’s life, the plant usually seeds. You can let the seeds fall where they will, or you can gather them. I really enjoy this! The sun is hot, the air refreshingly cool, and there is a fragrance known only to autumn as I move among my herbs, gathering dry seeds. Often, I simply scatter the seeds as I go. Many herbs act similar to wildflowers, reseeding with ease, but if you want to avoid this, cut the flowering stalks before they set seed. Since I like orderly gardens too, I save some to plant in designated areas. Also, I gather seed and (after I make sure it is thoroughly dry) place it in airtight containers. Seeds make excellent gifts to give to herb-garden-enthusiastic friends!
3. First Year Biennial Care: If it is the first year of your biennial, cover with mulch after the first hard frost.
4. Second Year Biennial Care: The weather is growing chilly and you know the first hard frost is near. Take a stroll in your garden to check on those second-year biennials. Is there anything worth saving left on the plants? Gather it and either freeze or dry for future use. Then, after gathering seeds, you may either snip down or uproot the plants. Many plants make a nice addition to the compost pile, or they can be used to mulch your first year biennials of the same kind (I mentioned of the same kind in case there are stray seeds left!).

Annuals:

1. The Seeds: Gather and either sow or save annual seeds as mentioned above [in the Biennial section].
2. Preserve: If the plants still have usable parts, freeze or dry them.
3. Compost: Toss what is left into your compost pile.

Are you wiping your brow just reading about the hard work ahead of you? Don’t despair. All good things require effort, and I believe you will agree with me: a thriving herb garden is worth it all!!

© 2014 Nature’s Warehouse

Jessica Dorfsmith is a contributing researcher and writer to the “Living Healthy” magalog and blog. Her primary focus is the cultivation and use of herbs in practical applications. See her book “The Beauty of Herbs” in the book section of our website!